There is an ending to all great novels, every painting gets it's final varnish and even the most memorable symphony eventually ends. Though each may be revisited and the parts remain alive in our eyes/ears, hearts and perhaps, even souls, a conclusion must be reached -- Oddasee One (note the potential for a sequel is looming) has been completed. There is talk of possible books and we're deciding between Scorcese, Spielberg and Cameron for the movie/film. It will take time for it all to kind of sink in. While there may be few Oddasee photos appearing in your daily email, watch for some sort of synopsis and our individual takes on the experience. Once this moving (we found a home and are in full on schlep and organize mode) blitzkrieg gets more under control, both of us will have thoughts to share. We really do believe this is but "Phase One" with more to come. After all, we only passed through 23 states and a few of those were not sufficiently covered. Why there's New England, the Northwest, California, Arizona, more along the Great Lakes and the North (shoot we didn't even make it to Fargo). So fear not Oddaseekers, there will be more.
For days leading up to the inevitable "end of the road" we had discussed how it's a shame that it will likely end with a whimper rather than a roar; seemed wrong. What about a "Grand Finale" with shouts and cheers from the Oddience begging for more...... Encore! Encore! -- Imagine the thundering applause amidst the internet standing ovation. How dare we end with an anti-climax? Well once again the Oddasee gods and goddesses favored us with an absolutely wonderful swan song.
While sticking to our guns and following proven methods and information gathering, we turned to our list to see what might be along our path between here (Santa Fe) and there (Ruidoso). There in a rather unimposing and vague note were the words "Casa de Colores by Casimiro "Casey" Marquez, Las Vegas NM. So with hope in our hearts and wind in the Toyota's wings, we set off for the last site on our odyssey.
Susan had never been to Las Vegas, NM (the complete opposite of that culture soul sucking hole of greed and tackiness in Nevada) Maybe many of you I-25 travelers have done the blast by or at most pull over for a rest stop and fill-up. Over the many years and treks south, R has wandered around this quirky little NM town often.
Recently, Hollywood has rediscovered the charm (and cheap use) of this oft ignored step-sister of Santa Fe. In addition to "No Country for Old men" there were others:
- In the 1969 movie Easy Rider, Las Vegas, New Mexico, is the town where the two bikers ride behind a parade, are arrested for "parading without a permit," and meetJack Nicholson's character in jail.
- The town was the filming location for parts of the 1978 movie Convoy, a film about truck drivers inspired by the 1975 song of the same name.
- Parts of the 1982 made-for-TV film The Ballad of Gregorio Cortez were filmed in and around Las Vegas.
- Las Vegas was the real-world town used to represent a fictional setting of Calumet, Colorado in John Milius' 1984 film Red Dawn. Many of the buildings and structures seen in the film remain.
- Parts of the 1994 movie Speechless, with Geena Davis and Michael Keaton, about a fictional New Mexico senatorial campaign, were filmed in Las Vegas.
- Several scenes in the 1998 film John Carpenter's Vampires were filmed on the plaza.
- The Hi-Lo Country and All the Pretty Horses, released in 1998 and 2000 respectively, were almost entirely shot here.
- In 2006, the film Fanboys used Las Vegas as one of its film locations. The film is about a dying Star Wars fan and was released in 2009. The 2006 movie The Astronaut Farmer was also filmed here.
- Most of the 2007 Coen brothers' No Country for Old Men, was filmed here.
- The 2008 film Beer for My Horses starring Toby Keith and Rodney Carrington was filmed in and around Las Vegas. The 2009 thriller Not Forgotten was shot in Las Vegas for incentives reasons.
- The 2007 film Wild Hogs starring John Travolta had scenes filmed around Las Vegas.
Well not far off the plaza was the address of our latest target. As must often be common for GPS systems, NM's street conundrums and enigmatic roads can baffle the even the most satellite informed. It took a few attempts but eventually we found our way down the correct street/alley..... at the dead end we saw an explosion of color; guess that's why it's called "Casa de Colores". We parked and if one can actually walk cautiously and with exuberance, your Oddasee duo found their spirits afire with that oh so familiar joy and curiosity. R. said out loud "Oh, I hope this guy is home; we simply need to get inside this yard."
Our wish was granted shortly thereafter as sitting in the shade of a large cottonwood was the creator of a truly unique world and he greeted us with a "May I help you?" In unison we said we were just there to see his creation/yard/house/shed. Casey said "Well come on in and see what you can see." Little did we know..... The first thing we noticed beyond the fence of various old bouncy carousel kid ride-toys (not the type found at your local amusement park but rather the ones bought at Sears or Wards many years ago). was one of the recurring themes of Mr. Marquez' yard of enchantment.... there were hundreds of stuffed animals and cartoon characters everywhere. They were hanging from trees, on clotheslines and even nailed to doors and walls. Wow! Disney meets Warner Brothers meets Walmart. Some seemed haphazard and others were placed with some mysterious relationships at play. It was hard to take in all at once. R. was shooting away with the little point and shoot camera and then he apologized as he scampered away to retrieve the mighty Nikon; this place and artist warranted the best equipment within reach.
All the while, Susan chatted with Casey and got his life story. Born and raised in Las Vegas. His career was varied with a long stint in an auto body and paint shop followed by years as the janitor for a mortuary. He shared much with the now highly skilled interviewer. Many stories of his life, family and special memories. R. was doing his best to capture the unbelievable unique visions of this remarkable man. The other ever-present reality was the use of the tool of far less inspired graffiti/taggers -- spray paint. It was definitely his media of choice. Jeez, Krylon should sponsor this guy; amazing. Also I must mention that sitting in a corner of the yard was an old speaker blaring (more accurately, loudly crackling) Spanish music from a local radio station; the general ambiance is impossible to describe.
Then in what will be a very memorable moment among the many from our incredible journey, Casey invited us into his home. This was to be a rare treat indeed. As R and S exchanged excited (oh poor poor pitiful understatement) glances, the obvious sense of privilege was not lost on these strangers. To what Outsider art gods do we owe such debt for this very very special honor?
It is here I must pause and take a breath...................................................
This remarkable and kindhearted man invited us into his most private environs. Perhaps earlier we could not help but wonder what may lie behind that door but little could we dare to hope for such an opportunity. It happened so unexpectedly that we really had no pause, only curiosity and gratitude.
Inside this very small two room house/shed was this sweet man's home. There on the bed lay clothes atop an old wool blanket. The ceiling was covered with stars; some of them the Day-glow variety. Not surprisingly, the ceiling was also alive with little stuffed animals. The walls were embellished with the ubiquitous spray painted dots -- the metal bed frame matched the wall behind it. Now keep in mind this was a very hot summer day and it was kind of dark in there. It was clean and even tidy (S. was so happy) if not what you could call organized. The other room contained no kitchen sink environmental disasters nor were there any malodorous smells. It really was not what you might expect from a person of such minimal means. Casey just sat in his chair and lit up a cigarette. He told us of his recent heart valve stint operation and his not great health. "I am eighty some years old. Why change now? I can't drink no more but I do love meat." We were touched not only by his hospitality and genuine kindness but by his infectious smile. He reached deep inside our hearts so effortlessly; it was a truly remarkable experience. Seldom on this journey or throughout life has a person so genuine touched this part of my heart; I was blown away. Susan was equally effected. A true gift that will never be forgotten.
It started to feel that we must intrude no further and begrudgingly made our way out the door. Outside in the fenced yard sat two new local characters had appeared as Casey welcomes them to sit in the shade and pass the days. They both seemed to be of limitations; either mentally and or physically. They too were very welcoming. It was greetings, smiles and handshakes for all. Then Casey noticed his little dog was not afoot. "Hey where's Agnes (or something like that)? He immediately went into the fear mode. Apparently, this little dog truly is his best friend and the thought of losing her was not a pleasant one. He asked if the two shade sitters had seen her and who was the last one through the gate. A bit of panic ensued and we headed out to the alley to assist in the hunt. Then from behind came the sought after canine bouncing out inside the house.... a collective sigh as the raggy little creature sauntered out to see what all the hub-bub was about. This was the final sign that we should move on. With sadness and joy we shook hands again and bid adios to our new found friend.
While this may seem to be the end of this tale, there is still one more chapter. As we drove off and in need of some food, we pondered the fate of Mr. Marquez. We were about to stuff our weary faces but what might Casey have for his Sunday dinner? It seemed that there must be some local folks keeping an eye on him by bringing him food, helping clean the place and even do laundry but there was no sign of excess of any kind. We hoped that one of the two refrigerators were functioning but could not be sure. The bathroom was in reality the "port-o-potty" out back. Once we thought of this, there was but one thing to do. Now keep in mind this humble man asked for nothing. He even gave Susan a small stuffed Marvin the Martian but with no expectations of anything in return. So we went off to find a market or grocery. A bit baffled at what to buy, we decided to go for special treats instead of common sustenance. After all.......Hey he "likes meat"! We also learned he has a sweet tooth (of course he does). This led to the purchase of a nice big juicy t-bone and a bag of chocolate Hershey mini-candy bars.
When R. walked back into his yard, he seemed quite surprised to see him. Sitting in his shaded chair with Agnes beside him, he was taken aback when offered the plastic bag. R. thanked him for sharing his art and showing us his home and that we wanted give him a small token of appreciation. His eyes brightened as he found the treasures within the crinkling bag. I said that we just wanted him to have a good Sunday dinner. He looked so deeply into my eyes, that the tears were starting to form. He said "God bless you" with such sincerity that it felt that if anyone could grant such a blessing, it was this very special man. I said "God Bless you" in return. I cannot remember if I had ever said that to anyone. I was and am still in awe of that moment. As I looked back one last time, Casey was stroking, almost caressing, the steak package with a smile on his face; a photo I did not need to take as it is etched in my mind and heart forever.
Well how's that for a grand finale? It was off to lunch and the final two and half hours of driving through the wide open spaces of New Mexico. It was a grand day that was made more so by those incredible clouds and sky.
Love and gratitude,
Rodney and Susan -- never to be the same after days such as this and the 112 that preceded it.
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