You may have noticed a little gap in daily email updates. I am sure that is something of a relief for many of you. Our last day in New Orleans was full and we got home late (in Nawlins..... imagine). No we did not party on Bourbon St. and no Susan did not expose herself (worthy I assure you) for some 10 cent beads but we had a great time. This is a city we both could imagine living in and are fully aware that we could have spent much more time exploring this truly unique world; we loved it. Unlike Houston, though we were ready to leave the big city, we really wanted more -- the Oddasee quest has many more roads to travel so we left with sadness in our hearts and gumbo in our veins.
And...... After leaving the big cities of Houston and New Orleans, we headed out into the woods for a couple nights of camping. Our hideaway did not offer internet access. So, we are few days behind with our updates. Not to fear, we will catch up soon.
Day 24 - "To Die For"
1. We set off to explore some of the local cemeteries. By the mere fact that they reside so close to the water (in some cases actually below sea level), the caskets are entombed above ground. This adds much to the visual power of these remarkable places. There are many historic cemeteries in the area and we hit only three -and - St. Louis #1, Lafayette #1 and St. Rochs. Each was different but with many similarities. At St. Louis we saw the gravesite of Marie Laveau, the famed voodoo practitioner/priestess. Her site was marked by pieces added to an ever-evolving altar and many visitors drew "Xs" all over the site; usually with three XXXs (her voodoo forte was love spells). There was another unmarked above ground grave of some voodoo notable at the Lafayette cemeter; it too was marked and embellished with an even more freshly enhanced altar. There were many amazing sites to see and numerous "historic plaque worthy" souls to read about. They were truly fascinating and visually incredible.
Then there was St. Rochs; words simply will not suffice.
In 1867, New Orleans was in the grip of a furious yellow fever epidemic, and there was little anyone could do to stop the spread of the disease. Reverend Peter Thevis prayed to St. Roch, a medieval saint who ministered to plague victims. After his congregation was spared, Rev. Thevis saw to the creation of the cemetery and its famous chapel.
The Chapel is the most unusual in the city, with its hundreds of mementos of cures attributed to St. Roch. Shoes, braces, crutches, and replicas of body parts line the walls. There is also a whisper that some of this is related to Voodoo, as ceremonies were once supposed to have taken place here.
It was a photo-marathon for both of us. The Chapel alone compelled me to break out the big camera and go full on "Arty Oddasee". Susan was doing her best Imogene Cunningham as she even laid on the ground to get some great angles. It was one of the most visually astounding sites these artist eyes have ever fell upon.
2. Then we ventured over to an area called the Garden District where we went for a very long walk among the mansions. Oooh ahhh! The little bungalows were huge and luxurious with yards and gardens rivaling Eden. We did not follow any guidebooks but rambled around in willy-nilly manner. Below you will see but a few of these historic architectural wonders. This is where by happenstance found the Lafayette cemetery. For awhile we managed to lose the truck which just meant we saw even more of these hard to believe their not hotels or schools "homes". Too many photos of New Orleans Homes to share..Oy!
3. Then it was back to the French Quarter to seek out M.S. Rau Antiques; the perfect place to buy little trinkets for our soon to be new abode in the Garden District - actually we discussed it and opted for a place in the old part of downtown just a few streets off from the madness of the bars, restaurants and tourist hot spots. The only word to describe this retail carnival is "decadent". Unbelievable items for sale. It really is like a museum where the displays are for sale. Want to buy a Tiffany silverware set for the bargain price of $258,000.00? Or how about an inlaid snooker table from the 16th century -- price upon request. Alas we left empty handed. It was then time to do some more aimless wandering through the many shops in the Quarter and back for a quick visit with new friends at the gallery.
4. To wrap it all up we sat in an open-air restaurant and swilled away as we watched the parade of touristas and local people heading home and hanging-out on one of the ubiquitous balconies. All was grand.
As mentioned, we feel as if we only scratched the surface of this magical city. We did very few of the regular tourist things. No art museums, did not ride the streetcars, visit the galleries in the Warehouse District, take a Riverboat tour or get trashed and throw up on Bourbon St. but we had our Oddasee spirits filled with Cajun memories and visions.
Love and jambalaya dripping onto our muffalettas as we try to brush powdered sugar of our clothes after eating beignets from Cafe Dumonde,
Rodney and Susan
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